Hi JillianJ,
One of the things I love about being with my hounds is that just when you start to feel confident that you know what you are doing, they will do something that makes you question what you've been doing for the past weeks, months and sometimes even years.
My comment with the attaching the leash to you and expecting your boy to follow you, is what are you hoping to achieve with this? Again I don't know the how's and where's of you doing this. But for instance I would never attach my boy to me in the house or garden as I often want to do stuff without my dog under my feet - eg cooking in the kitchen - or mowing the lawn, so to my mind it would be unfair to reward the dog for staying close to me one minute and then expect them to settle away from me in the next.
In addition, how does using the leash as a tether one moment with umbilical training help or hinder your on-leash walking - is it clear to the dog what is being required of him on each occasion?
A dear friend who is now frail and in her late 70's still walks her Irish Wolfhound and Deerhound daily, people often comment how nicely her hounds walk and when asked how she taught them, she simply replies, 'I never put a lead on them until they wanted to follow me' - therefore she and the dogs are always of the same purpose.
Whilst its not always possible to do this (I couldn't with my boy as we were apt living for his first 9 months), it is a good measure to go by, that if you dog will not accompany you without a lead why on earth do we think they will with a lead! However I now have a garden and that's what I'm working on improving now, so no lead, but making a game of him following me in the garden and getting rewarded when he is close to my left leg. In time I'll introduce a command, and then a lead! Meanwhile I will still continue with my old on leash walking protocol by stopping when he pulls - but the way he has learnt that (or I've taught it!) is that he goes to the end of his leash and then he has to stop. As its harder to reteach something, hence I'm starting over in a different way.
JC
A popular misconception is that positive/reward training is just 'bribing' the dog - this is not the case at all if done correctly. It reinforces the behaviours you like, so the dog will repeat them more frequently. This principle underlies all interactions with the dog, which is why we keep on saying how good it is as it applies whether to lead walking or asking your dog to get off the couch or nipping. By just not rewarding the undesired behaviours they diminish in frequency.
Unfortunately I have never heard of 'Alpha training by Bill Paterson' - can you direct us to where we can find out more? Also have never heard of the term 'umbilical training' so again do not understand what you've been doing.
x2
you dont have to use treats either, whatever is a great reward for your dog (tugging on a toy, fetch etc). Positive reinforcement is the way that they train whales and dolphins to do tricks, and Ive even known some people to train guinea pigs! It is a very powerful training technique that works on all animals (including people).
Operant conditioning http://www.alleydog.com/101notes/conditioning.html
bridge and target: http://synalia.com/about-sats/overview-of-sats-bridge-and-target/
This just in today on the Dog Star Daily blog:
"Being the Pack Leader Feels GREAT!"
http://dogstardaily.com/blogs/being-pack-leader-feels-great
… a bit difficult to read without paragraph breaks, but relevant to the discussion nonetheless. Dog Star Daily also has quite a few other articles on dominance/alpha theory, and just lots of interesting information in general.
JayCee, umbilical, or tether training is described in the Monks of New Skete books, I believe. At least I think that is where I first read of it.
JayCee, umbilical, or tether training is described in the Monks of New Skete books, I believe. At least I think that is where I first read of it.
Thanks Andrea, at some point I'll get around to reading some of 'Monks of New Skete' books, however as I believe one or more of their books (I hope its only older versions) advocated using alpha rolls and such dominance techniques they've not made it to the top of my reading list yet. That's not to say some of their guidance/methods are useful, I've just not read any of their books but have heard that some of their methods are questionable.
I know of some folks have used tethering the dog to themselves with new fosters - in part to keep them out of mischief/to help with house training. Personally I prefer a more hands-off approach where the dog in their own time will turn to me for guidance and use crates/puppy pens to manage the keep out of mischief/house breaking aspects. Hopefully if I get around to reading the book I might find out why they find it a good technique - as I mentioned above, I like my dogs to be comfy with not having to be with me/know what I'm doing - of course I tend to have canine shadows when I'm doing my chores - however they are just as happy to 'shadow' with their eyes, whilst they remain snug in bed!
I read somewhere recently that the Monks no longer recommend that method of training, certainly not for all dogs. I think research has shown that the true alphas in a pack are benevolent and not so forceful as we had thought.
I think there are better books on training and behavior than the Monks of New Skete. Basenjis seem to be the opposite of German Shepherds, anyway!
Thanks Andrea, at some point I'll get around to reading some of 'Monks of New Skete' books, however as I believe one or more of their books (I hope its only older versions) advocated using alpha rolls and such dominance techniques they've not made it to the top of my reading list yet. That's not to say some of their guidance/methods are useful, I've just not read any of their books but have heard that some of their methods are questionable.
I know of some folks have used tethering the dog to themselves with new fosters - in part to keep them out of mischief/to help with house training. Personally I prefer a more hands-off approach where the dog in their own time will turn to me for guidance and use crates/puppy pens to manage the keep out of mischief/house breaking aspects. Hopefully if I get around to reading the book I might find out why they find it a good technique - as I mentioned above, I like my dogs to be comfy with not having to be with me/know what I'm doing - of course I tend to have canine shadows when I'm doing my chores - however they are just as happy to 'shadow' with their eyes, whilst they remain snug in bed!
Right, I don't use their training techniques, but I read them years ago (wow, over 20 years now), when I was first learning about dog training. I prefer reward based training also. I have never used tethering around the house because I know I would trip over the dog 
I have tethered one of my own pups to me while teaching a puppy class, however, so that I could use my hands more easily…it worked really well in that situation. Personally, I think tethering as a training technique is un-necessary, and counter-productive...but probably not detrimental.
Heard about your problem potty training your b in the rain. I think all b's hate rain. Rain is Beegin's evil enemy but then again so is wet feet…
Anyway, it's a simple suggestion but I got Beegin a little raincoat for pottying in the rain and he is a hundred times better about it now. My neighbors think he looks a little silly but then again, he doesn't care what they think anyway.
Got the raincoat online from petsmart about 2 years ago. I did have to do a little modifying of the underbelly straps but it was really simply stiching cuz Beegin needed a medium for length but didn't fit the girth.
Living in the PNW, our b's just have to go out in the rain..But the rain coats do help.
Also, making it just seem like "part" of the day…wake up, walk, rain or shine, with human suffering as well as dog, back home, dry off, eat breakfast...
They don't like it, but its like "work" for us...has to be done.
Sharron Hurlbut
BRAT, basenji rescue
Evergreen basenji club
Seattle Purebred Dog Rescue
This year seems to be the wettst we've encountered in my part of the uK. Most of mine hate the rain but know that I insist that they pee outside whatever the weather.
Gbala has the best method - she stands on her head first before running round and round indoors for several minutes and then makes a wild dash for outside. The rest, apart from Bungwa, just edge out gradually. Bungwa stands outside looking very miserable and getting soaking wet before he'll eventually pee!! What a dreadful mum I am, he tells me!
This training discussion is very interesting but I think that it is better to realise that one can't always follow methods used by trainers and designed for the average dog rather than Basenjis. If there are no knowledgeable Basenji training advisers, far better to follow the wise advice given on this forum by those who've had the same behaviour experiences with Basenjis.
@macpack I was wondering if I could ask a follow-up question in regards to making basenjis think "its their idea." I hear that a lot when I'm reading about them. What does that mean or look like?
I would try a raincoat for the rain. It helped my guy to go out in the rain. He would just get really cold so the coat helped. I did the same thing another poster mentioned - bought a size larger and modified the belly strap to fit my B that way the coat covers his whole back.
@lvoss
I sit, nuzzle and cuddle with my B, Thor on the couch all the time. He has a mat on the floor when he wants to rest and stretch out. It’s not prohibitive, but if we don’t want him up there we direct him off....and he is told to go to place.
@sharronhurlbut
We live in SW Fl, it rains everyday in the summer, our boy Thor has to just suck it up. We try to hold off when we can, but when nature calls, a quick trip outside....do our business and shake off under the portico
