Help with newly adopted basenji!

Behavioral Issues

  • Hi Everyone :) I'm the sister referred to in the posts. My name is Cathy and I'm new to the Basenji world. I rescued a 4 yr old Male at the end of May and he is the most wonderful addition to my family. He came to me with no history but is so very loving and gentle. As you know my 2nd attempt to rescue didn't go so well.

    My hand is healing just fine, but my heart aches. This poor little dog did nothing wrong. It was all human error that caused his death and I'm so sad. Sad that my uneducated behavior had a part in his being destroyed. Mad that the organization didn't give me a better explanation of what behaviors he had been exhibiting.

    If I could only go back and make changes…..but its too late for him :(


  • Welcome Cathy! I'm Kim (with 3 basenjis, a hubby and a malinois) and so glad you made it to our forum, but sorry about the circumstances. I'm glad your #2 has not soured you on the breed. They are quirky little creatures. I know your heart (and hand) hurts and I hope you can find peace soon.


  • Welcome Cathy! I am so sorry you had to go through this. Please know that this was no fault of yours…sadly this dog was probably quite dangerous because of his lack of bite inhibition. Hugs to you...and again, welcome...

  • First Basenji's

    I'm so sorry this story had to end like this.
    But thank you for checking in with us. I hope you will be able to have more, less tragic Basenji adventures with us for some time to come.


  • Cathy, you just had a most horrible all-around 'rescue' experiences. I am so glad your hand is healing, but please don't blame yourself at all. Who thinks of all these things when you are adopting a cute dog from the shelter? I have had many basenjis who were "touchy" about their tails, but never such a reaction. I'm sure there are lots of things you would do differently if you could hit the 'undo' button, but nothing that you did was 'wrong' in any way. Try and look ahead and use your sad experience to educate (as you have done to us). As someone said, thank goodness it wasn't your face, or some small child…kids can't keep their hands off a basenji's tail. Like any accident,it all happened so fast (literally, at 60 mph) but it is past and try and put it behind you. Things work out for a reason, even if it makes no sense at the time.
    Hugs.


  • As always Macpack comes up with the right words. I totally agree with her - you did your very best Cathy, and that's what we all try to do.


  • Thanks, everyone, for welcoming my sister, Cathy. Anne, we've met once here in Tampa, but you feel like a kindred spirit, for your words of wisdom and love truly hit home. Thank you!


  • What a sad outcome for that pup, but good to hear that you'll continue to love basenjis and basenji rescue. It's so hard to stop at one. :p Bet you'll be adding to your B family at some point, all the wiser.

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    Hi - a few thoughts in case they are helpful, although ours doesn't bite. For biting: Figure out the reasons for biting first. if it is around toys/possessiveness - we gave him the toy on his bed and let him be there gnawing on his own. Then walked close by (not too close) and threw him something yummier in his view (eg a small piece of sausage that he can eat quickly) and walk away. Do this at random (though not too often) and have different people in your family do it. Soon she will associate your coming close to her and her favorite toy as something good. Progressively get closer (ie throw the sausage from closer), and then squat down, then touch on head briefly, then hand sausage to her, then move hand towards toy but don't touch it. By this time she will anticipate your coming to her when she has a toy as "yay, something more tasty coming my way". Evenutally, you should pick up the toy/bone hand her the sausage then hand back the toy/bone. Pretty soon she'll let you pick up her toy/bone without biting or thinking you are going to take it away. The key is to progress slowly in terms of distance etc, and mix up the treats (sausage, cheese, chicken). -if she does bite someone, then immediately isolate her in a basenji-proof room where she cant destroy things. And when letting her out, ask her to sit and be calm for a few seconds first so that she's not hysterical and she learns to watch and listen to you. There may be something else that one does for biting, so maybe others or a trainer would have good ideas. For pulling on walks, 2 things worked for us: A gentle leader - suggested by our trainer. This means she can't control her head (if they pull forward their head moves to the side like a horses halter) and so she won't be able to forge ahead. It will give your arm/shoulder immediate relief while you work on the rest. In the yard and on walks start rewarding with small treats every time she looks back at you/checks on you. At first she'll do it by chance, or if she is checking to see what you are doing, and sometimes it's a side glance. As soon as she does it - give big verbal praise and get her to come to you and give her a treat and lots of pets. She will begin to do this more often. initially treat every time she looks at you, and once she is good at it, then randomly. On walks you'll find her looking back and coming back to you more often, and as a corollary less pulling, which is a relief. We usually keep the leash in one hand and a handful of small, soft treats in the other - so you don't run out and have to keep going into your pocket to get treats. So, she'll come and nose your hand and you can pet some times, treat sometimes, etc. The one thing is to progress slowly, praise the right behavior and don't get impatient (count to 10, stop training or go do something else for a bit till you feel ready to try again). When doing the praise really have an excited voice and go overboard even! Our basenji really loves being praised. It takes more time perhaps than other methods, but it's long lasting because they see these behaviors as rewarding so you don't have to get into a battle of wills. And once they get the idea, they'll improve rapidly, even over one walk. Good luck!
  • Help!

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    Kipawa went through a rambunctious stage at 13 months - he didn't do anything bad, but he seemed to be 'testing' who the boss was. He was reminded, consistently. (Grin) At 15 months he started to show very nice maturation qualities and a complete understanding of his place in our family pack. Be patient, be consistent, give him lots of exercise and really praise him when he is good.
  • Help

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    Do let us know what you found out from the vets.
  • New to the basenji world, need HELP!

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    @DebraDownSouth: Andrea, great post. I have taught many dogs bite inhibition at a much older age, though… only thing you wrote I don't heartily agree with. Yes, I understand that it is possible but I'd like to know more about it. Generally it's accepted that teaching remedial ABI is difficult to do at best, at least amongst the trainers I know, talk to and read. Dunbar says he's done it but I tried to pin him down at a seminar and he was evasive. I was hoping to get specifics, training program and how to test it or pointed at one. He said to buy his DVDs. I did. Best I could find was teaching a better ritualized bite and jaw prudence and done my best to scour books and websites as well (and speaking with colleagues, natch). What I found didn't really satisfy me. I mean, when I think of teaching ABI, I am thinking of teaching it so that it holds up even under duress since that's when it's most important. For instance a colleague was recently contacted about a Level 5 biter. If it's possible to teach reliable ABI in adult dogs THAT dog should be a candidate for sure. I'd love to assist someone teaching it to a dog like that, or in training a dog that has poor ABI with other dogs. How could you train and test that safely or humanely? What is the liability there? Pretty serious, I would think. I do remember my first basenji experience though. I have trained and worked with dogs my entire adult life. So imagine my surprise when squeaking caused her to bite MORE, lol. Change of tactics. Life offers us so many opportunities to learn new things. :) Ah yes, I've had one of those. I changed to a calm "too bad" and then removing myself. Worked MUCH better. Depends on the dog. EDIT: I just looked at the site you linked and what she is talking about is what I refer to as 'jaw prudence'. When I use ABI, I'm referring to how hard the dog bites when it bites, not if it puts its mouth on you. For instance, your Rottie I would say had great ABI but iffy jaw prudence. OTOH, there are dogs with great jaw prudence but the one time they use their mouths they do it will full jaw force. I'd much prefer the former.
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    I agree with Catherine, socialization is a must, but it depends on the personality of the individual dog. When we had 4, they all slept on the bed together and ran together and rarely did we have any problems. We added a puppy and things were still going ok, just really crowded. However, one day our youngest girl decided she was all grown up and didn't want to be bossed around anymore by our 'wanna-be' alpha. Neither of them was a true alpha. We managed to defuse the situation, but a month later it happened again. The girls could never be together again. In fact, the tri developed a predjudice against all red girls after that! Both girls were terrific with people and with Basenji males and even with males and females of other breeds. I had 2 intact males, brothers, who stayed together with absolutely no problem for almost 4 years until one went to another home. They even got along during season. Terry