Leash Pulling…HELP!

Basenji Training

  • I was wondering what suggestions people had out there for correcting the pull issue while walking your dogs.

    She starts out ok then after a little while she constantly pulls. I'll stop and stand there until she stops but then when I start to go she instantly starts pulling again. I'll try and use a really short lead but that doesn't stop the pulling either.

    It gets really frustrating sometimes and would love to hear some techniques to try and curb this bad habit.


  • I tried a couple of different things, but the gentle lead helped the most. It is the type that goes over their nose (but they can still open their mouths). I HAVE to use this lead when we go out in public…. Hollie likes to pull also. Good luck.


  • tools:
    head harnesses can help. but need to be used properly. i'm fond of the black dog head harness, unlike the gentle leader, it doesn't ride up into the eyes. (controls the dog by controling the head. a dog doesn't pull by it's head) aprox $30

    chest harness: the easy walk harness is like wearing a t-shirt 2 sizes too small. you can't really lift your arms all the way up. same theory here - dog can't get too much ground on you in order to pull. aprox $30

    training:

    REWARD loose leash walking. take treats with you walking. when the dog isn't pulling, reward! pulling = stopping. don't move forward when pulling happens. dog will learn pullling = no walking.

    go the other way. dog pulls forward… you turn around and go the other way. dog pulls again. turn. dog learns to follow you - not drag you. (careful - I ended up going in circles doing this! looking rediculous on my road)

    just some tips. I found daily practice helped the most.


  • Great tips thank you both. I walk her at least 3x a day so she'll definately be getting some practice.

    @jessi76:

    tools:
    (careful - I ended up going in circles doing this! looking rediculous on my road)

    She constantly pulls no matter what direction I'm going so I'm sure I will be looking just as rediculous for a while :D


  • We've been at the loose leash training for about a week now & we walk 2x a day…not a whole lot of progress but any little progress helps. They take turns being good...one day TOPAZ does great & another day C3 does great & some days they both just will NOT cooperate :)

    I'm assuming time will work it's magic soon ha!


  • For Sandie i bought the Sporn training halter i bought at pets marts for around 27.00 …. I have tried endlessley to loose lead her... And keep going back to the training halter... She doesnt pull with it on and it makes our walks so much more enjoyable. You might try if u want to continue the leash walks... pulling the collar high on neck near ears and use a short lead...


  • O.K. I'm not the only one that gets frustrated. We have taken our year old Basenji to obiedience training and have practiced their techniques for loose lead walking THOUSANDS of times. I'm almost in tears and have a semi torn rotator cuff because of the training. We were told that harnesses do not work, and I am hesitant because our breeder will be showing him, to use the sporn. But, there's becoming fewer and fewer options for a pleasant walking experience. Our dog is fine indoors, e.g. showing, but as soon as we hit the fresh air, it's "Basenji Power Walking". Anyone show their dog and have similar issues?


  • I had the same problem, use the Dog Whisperer method:

    Short leash attached directly to tightly affixed collar. Works great.

    When they start pulling or looking around at other dogs etc, just make a quick sound and jerk to re-focus them.

    I started out with a harness and after a few weeks of my 1.5 yr old pulling me all over the place I tried this method, I haven't had a problem since.

    Watch the show too, he shows people how to do it on their as well.


  • I found the best way to train loose lead walking is on a long line. Go to a park where there is lots of open space. Bring a 20 foot long line. When you get out into a nice open space attach the long line. Start walking, not in a straight line but keep changing directions, be interesting. When the dog chooses to be next to you give a treat and praise. Pretty quickly the dog should be choosing to stay closer and closer to get the really yummy treats that you have brought with you. When you start on a shorter leash remember to reward the dog when it is close to you. You can slowly start to fade the rewards.

    Another really good way to train loose leash walking is described in the Training Levels, http://www.dragonflyllama.com/%20DOGS/Levels/LevelBehaviours/LevelsBook.html


  • @spitfirekrl1:

    I was wondering what suggestions people had out there for correcting the pull issue while walking your dogs.

    She starts out ok then after a little while she constantly pulls. I'll stop and stand there until she stops but then when I start to go she instantly starts pulling again. I'll try and use a really short lead but that doesn't stop the pulling either.

    It gets really frustrating sometimes and would love to hear some techniques to try and curb this bad habit.

    I have no idea how old your dog is, but we use a martingale collar, and a regular dog lead for walking. While teaching our Basenji Roo to heal and not to pull, I keep the lead wrapped around my hand and very short so I hold his head up.

    This accomplishes a few things. One it helps him stay on task. Two is tells him exactly how far I want him to go. Third, it minimizes the pulling I have to tolerate. Four it lets Roo know who is in control.

    I have established myself as the pack leader. As Roo has learned this, I have been able to loosen up on the length of the leash and most of the time Roo will either walk behind me or on my left side. I have actually taught him with the same technique to walk on either side I choose. Bonzo my Boston Terrier also will do this with no problem, so between the two dogs, I can actually walk a normal or fast pace and swing my arms as I normally would when I am walking with no issues.

    I have read suggestions where it was mentioned to bring along the dogs favorite toy and hold on the side where your want the dog to walk. You might stuff it in your side or back pocket with enough hanging out so your dog can see it. Of course that might create another issue of jumping to get the toy while you walk.

    My Roo, has been very responsive to the Cherrio Cereal Rewards that I give him. Roo and Bonzo get a Cherrio or some other treat after every walk. I also give verbal encouragement to Roo every time he walks properly and exceptionally well. Sometimes I even stop and treat him in the middle of the walk.

    When Roo starts to pull, I give a quick short pull on the leash and verbally correct him. He seems to respond to this well. Keep in mind that we are now doing 3 miles in the morning and 3 miles in the evening. I have no idea how long your walk your dog. During our 3 mile walks, I have ample time to correct Roo and he has ample time to learn the behavior I am expecting of him.

    Jason


  • I just stand still when Mirtillo pulls. He has a normal collar and leash. I wait untill he makes a turn and comes to me or makes eye contact. When he comes, he gets a treat. (just his normal kibble) When he makes eye contact I tell him he's a good boy.
    We are now at the point that when he comes he doesn't immediatly gets his treat, he first has to follow, sit, follow and then it's ok. On the flexi I mostly try to call him to come to me before he is at the end of the line, he gets a treat and he is 'free' again.
    On the normal leash Mirtillo also gets rewarded when he just looks at me and/or walks next to me. That way I'm way more interesting then the ground…

    When there is a dog/cat/bird and he pulls, I don't expect him to pay attention to me.. so I'm happy when he sits when I stand still and gives a quick glance at me.

    I also tried the method of just making a lot of turns, until the dog pays attention.. I didn't like it.. it was frustrating for me and for Mirtillo. I don't like to pull back.. I believe it is way too easy for the dog.. When I stand still, Mirtillo has to figure out how to get me walking again.. It's more of a positive game. When he pulls, I don't think... Ooooooohw.. here we go again........... But I think: ok, this is a great opportunity to get him to pay attention to me.. And I just stand still.. first he will ignore me, he will sniff somewhere else (there is no pulling anymore), then he will try to pull again to make me clear he wants to go there.. then he cries.. And then he thinks: I HATE YOU.. and he looks at me and comes to me with a face like: IS THIS OK??? And then I praise, give something yummie and we're both happy.

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    All good suggestions so far for you to try. Here's my suggestions based on my experiences. 1. When mine first came to my home I would arrange a bit of vacation time so that the first day I was with them totally, then the next day I would disappear out the door for 15 minutes and then for longer times, then the third day I disappeared for an hour or more, etc., until I could go to work for half a day then eventually for my full regular work day. This took me about a week to train the dog to be home alone. 2. The second basenji that came into my life had been broken of his crate training by an ignorant owner so I never could get him back into it. Instead I blocked off a corner of the kitchen for him with a bed and toys for him to stay in for the first several days. Gradually I allowed him more wandering room until he was trustworthy enough to have access to the whole house. This took about a month. 3. Be sure to give your dog a variety of toys and especially the kind that you can put kibble or other food in (such as "Kong" toys). Basenjis need mental stimulation or they get bored (=destructive). My current basenji gets frozen raw marrow bones when I go to work and sometimes she'll still be nawing on it when I get home. I also save old bones and fill the hole with kibble and yogurt or pumpkin and then freeze and give this to her sometimes. 4. Someone mentioned rawhide but I've never had luck with that - it's not digestable and has caused problems with my dogs (one time a piece got stuck in the digestive tract and he screamed "bloody murder" with every movement). Never give your dog a treat unsupervised until you know she can handle it or doesn't have an allergic reaction to it. Once you know its safe then okay - but even then I never give the stick type treats to mine unless I'm home to supervise. Hope this helps.
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    Mirtillo isn't allowed off leash either. Only when I'm sure there is no traffic within a radius of 10 km.. When we go to such places I ask other dogowners if their dogs listen well and if it's ok that I let Mirtillo off leash. When Mirtillo doesn't listen.. the other dogs will and I can 'catch' him. It occasionally happens that his leash slips through my fingers, but when I call him then, he always returns immediatly. (knowing I'm having some very yummy treats)
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    These front-attaching harnesses work really well in my experience. As soon as the dog starts to pull, it will turn itself towards you, slowing it down. Otherwise the dog has every bit of freedom to do what it wants.