• Again what do you mean by atacking.. My ltwo dound like they are tearig eachother to bits at times, but they don't bite eachother to draw blood. Sometimes they just are done dealing with eachother and need to let the other one know that. So is their skin damage to either one?…. As for how long does it take to get along, some dogs never do... If you could describe IN DETAIL the "Atacking" we would have a better Idea of what suggestions to give you


  • Also, you might invest in crates for feeding, if you don't have crates already… it is really best to separate them and crates give the the opportunity to eat without distraction.... and when they are both done, you can let both out....


  • Well, he bit her the second or third day he was here. I dont think she is gotten over that. He is submissive but strong. She is agressive but not as strong phyisically. Yesterday they were playing with a toy and she bit him. He was hurt. In other words, they have drawn blood.


  • I can say I've never tried to get two bs together in the same house so listen to the breeders (or anyone who's integrated bs in a pack) for specifics on that.

    I have however integrated several shelter dogs together before my current b boy (I'm in an apartment now so I can't have a pack of 4 dogs running about the acreage - that and I no longer have acreage). From that experience, especially with older dogs who may have previous baggage, patience and consistency are key. If you had a routine you kept with the first dog, try to keep it and work the new dog into it. Seperate feeding (in crates if need be) is also a good idea to stave off fights during meal times. You might also want to get a few new neutral toys that are not "hers" and introduce the toys to them both. She may in time share her toys but it may be easier to put away her familiar toys for now and go with some new neutral ones. Additionally, walking as a pack is a big deal for them and not only does it burn off energy (that can't then be used for fighting) but you establish your leadership by controlling the walk. They will be less likely to fight and move forward at the same time. If your b is anything like mine (super high energy cuz my b is 9 months old:) ), you may need to go faster at first. I.e. If you usually walk, start with a brief run on the leash or rollerblade or bike with the b girl, then walk your girl with the newbie. If he is more submissive, then tire her out a bit and then work them together.

    You can also always keep their leashes on while they are in the house. This gives you easier access to them and more control so you can stop a fight sooner.

    Hope these tips help.


  • Hmmm….we do all that or at least we try. I take them for walks. I control the walk, i do running and walking fast. I give mine the affection she needs but she is more and more staying away from me, not wanting that attention??? She was always very close to me. She would sit with me, follow me around, sit in my lap, sit in front of me so i could pet her....but that is all changing. He does it now and she doesnt seem to care much??? My wife made a comment today saying that she has aged since we have gotten him. I agree. She looks different. How do u know that uar dogs are happy? Are there any signs? I really want it to work. We are tying our best. He is eight and not neutred....does that have anything to do with it?


  • "YESTERDAY I FED HER AND PUT HER OUTSIDE. SHE SAT BY THE SLIDING DOOR AND WHEN HE CAME UP FROM FINISHING HIS FOOD…SHE LITERALLY ATTACKED THE DOOR FROM OUTSIDE AND HIM FROM INSIDE."

    Just a thought........Do you think, in this circumstance, she might have felt she was missing out on something by being excluded from the males feeding time? If they have to have separate feeding times could you keep her on a short leash with you giving praise and dinner kibble as a treat for good behavior while he eats?

    From what I understand "the house" is her territory (as she sees it) and you are inside the house (also her territory). Do you think it would make a difference if she was in the house and he was fed outside? If separate kennels are not an option so that they are fed at the same time, how about an area where you could use a toddler gate? Just remember to remove both dinner bowls before you re-introduce the 2 of them!!

    I'm just a pet owner with no professional knowledge, so I may be way off base here. Perhaps others with introduction experience specific to your case will chime in again. Good luck and keep us posted as you begin to try to re-gain your alpha position in the house.:)


  • The best solution for feeding is crates…. they both stay in until both are done... and the bowls are removed.... and the crates side by side (IMO)

    And while it might not make much different, but there is no reason to have the boy intact...


  • It sounds to me like the female is resource guarding you and the house.
    So, what you do is give them plenty of exercise.
    Then, in my house, I put the food down, male left hand, female right and stand there until each is done.
    NO one is allowed to touch the other dogs bowl until they are finished.
    a leash on both can help with this. YOU do this every day, every treat, every time something is given to the dogs.
    The dogs will learn what hand his treats will come from and they will rearrange themselves if they are in the "wrong" place, to get a treat or dinner.
    It takes time but if your consistant, it will work.
    Also, when your on the couch and she is by you and he comes over..if she growles YOU must get up and walk out of the room.
    Same with hubby. Say nothing, just walk out. Wait then come back. REPEAT and you will have to, but it does work.
    It takes work on your part, but she will realize that she isn't guarding you…with her actions, she is making you leave. It also helps her she that he isn't the problem, she is.
    There is more...but those are the biggies right now.
    I would also have squirt bottles around to give each a squirt when the behavior goes over the top.
    Hope this helps.


  • Some personal input in addition to my previous comments.

    1. Like Sharon H. said - get some squirt bottles for different rooms in your house. You could get cheap squirt guns (like dollar store) variety if you want something more discrete (i.e. can be hidden behind the decorative vase etc) but make sure they don't squirt too hard. I have done this before with a shelter dog that kept trying to bury toys in the couch (like inside cushions). The idea is that the squirt is to break their attention off of whatever they were doing. Then you command them to get off the couch, lay down, go to their crate etc whatever you think best for the situation. Then you can praise the behavior in response to the command. This way the squirt bottle doesn't have a totally negative association because there was a positive reward in the end.

    2. Another idea is to keep several containers of treats (out of paws reach of course) in several rooms of your house. This way you can very quickly reward your female when she is being passive and behaving nicely. You can also keep a few absolute favorite treats in these containers as well and every once in a while give the female (or any of the others) a jackpot treat (or several treats) for the quiet calm behavior you want. Think of it sort of like gambling - every once in a while you win big so you keep playing the game. Lottery-style reinforcement contingencies will help you maintain long term results.

    Hope this helps.


  • Hi guys. Thanks for u ongoing support. I did write a new issue in under the behaviour colum today.


  • hi you dont have to feed them seperate!. you have to put the other one in a cage for about 5 to 2 weeks depending on the female. to feed them next to eachother.

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