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Need HELP!

Basenji Training
  • S

    Jason, I don't think you will see any change in your boy once he is fixed.
    I am interested to hear if you think there was…
    You also make a good point on making the dogs earn something, sit for a treat, sit for a walk, etc.
    All good stuff.

    Sharron Hurlbut

    BRAT, basenji rescue

    Evergreen basenji club

    Seattle Purebred Dog Rescue

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  • wizardW

    Don't worry about failing the obedience class - my previous beastie EL D was never doing anything properly in class (and I was really getting frustrated) but on the last day passed his exam except for one command and did them without error.
    Living in Minnesota (and the last couple of days the temperature never reached 0deg F) we don't get as much walk-time as in the summer. So I always try to spend some time in the house just going through some basic obedience commands - even just heeling back and forth in the basement. 5 minutes here and there - its' not a substitute for walks but it helps.

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  • ibi_n_saneI

    I recommend a proper clicker training, you have to make clear to her that you are the boss, I recon that in the USA there are also dogschools with behaviour therapist that give proper clickertraining.
    It works!
    you just need to set everything back, start all over again, a very good way is with the clicker, it is hard work but fun also as the dog has to think for itself and it makes the understanding between human and dog so much better.
    A basenji is very intelligent and very active so besides a lot of walks and other ways to get rid of her physical energy she also needs mental challenges, with the clicker you can give that.

    If I call you names, please note that I am not suffering the Tourette syndrom.

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  • Ninabeana26N

    @ComicDom1:

    We have spent quite some time teaching Roo not to bite but I think its normal behavior for a Basenji to attempt to paw or mouth you when they want attention or something else. I have noticed that our Basenji has never really tried to bite us but if you are unprepared for them to mouth you and jerk your hand away you can unintentionally get hurt or get the impression that they are biting even when they are not.

    Jason

    Dallas will nip/mouth for attention. For example, in the car, he rides in the back seat. If we are not paying attention to him & he decides he wants it, he will nip at the back of our arms [which is REALLY painful!!!!!].

    I also agree that walks are crucial. It really is a nice bonding time for the whole family & also serves the important task of tiring the dog out [& human!]. Tired basenjis are quiet "good" basenjis :p Isn't that a motto on here or something? lol

    Oh and as for the neutering, I got Dallas' done at 10 months. I noticed he did calm down a little bit. He still has his moments where he loves to terrorize the house. However, those are much fewer & far between than before his neutering. The best part post-neuter for him was that he stopped humping!!! He was humping everything/everyone in sight up until the day before he went in for the surgery. Haha. Please let us know if you notice any changes in your boy!

    Nina & my baby boy Dallas

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  • H

    Hmmm….i have 2 handful at home. All the above advice are great. I just wanted add that my female used to pee and poo in her crate. I asked the breeder about this and the answer i got was very simple. Do u wash the the fabric u put in her crate and i replied no. The breeder said the anything on the shelf is touched by hundreds of people and that my female keeps doing it to make it her own. Im not sure if thats true or not but she hasnt done anything like that sense i started washing everything i buy for her.

    Joti & Karen

    Surrey, BC

    Canada

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  • dmcartyD

    Remember in obedience classes - it'll take a basenji several full sessions to get what a golden would learn in 3 weeks.

    Another good tip in the house that I always tell my puppy people is the concept of 'teather' you have a leash hooked to you so the puppy is always near at hand - you get to see better when things might happen and monitor her behavior better.

    never,never,never basenji off leash - can't say it enough and too many on the list can give you and example of why. Their prey drive is strong and they see it or smell it they are gone!

    Good idea to check in for training suggestions from your breeder - they may have some good ideas as well.

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  • rnastoR

    Another thing you can do is to get an empty soda can. Fill it with pennies and tape over the hole. When in the house whenever she does something you don't like shake it. Its loud, and annoying, and the dog will immediately startle. Once you have her attention start obedience training. So for instance

    Dior: jumps up on the counter
    YOU: Immediately shake can
    Dior: stops, looks up
    YOU: SIT….Good Girl :Treat:

    After a while Dior may try to see what happens when she does not listen to you when you shake the can. Then throw it about 5ft away from her but in her general direction. This will cause the sound to be really close and startling. Repeat process.

    NEVER THROW THE CAN AT THE DOG. That's not nice. Hope this helps

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  • G

    I remember my 1st B flunked training. I didn't know what to expect back then - 25 yrs ago - there's a lot more info now, & more resources available, such as this forum. Time spent & exercise are 2 best methods.

    G

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  • QuercusQ

    @dmcarty:

    Remember in obedience classes - it'll take a basenji several full sessions to get what a golden would learn in 3 weeks.
    Another good tip in the house that I always tell my puppy people is the concept of 'teather' you have a leash hooked to you so the puppy is always near at hand - you get to see better when things might happen and monitor her behavior better.

    never,never,never basenji off leash - can't say it enough and too many on the list can give you and example of why. Their prey drive is strong and they see it or smell it they are gone!

    Good idea to check in for training suggestions from your breeder - they may have some good ideas as well.

    Regarding the highlighted bit…I must respectfully disagree! The basenji will get it long before the Golden...but it will take them three weeks to decide if they want to cooperate with you and perform at class ;)

    Seriously though....most of my dogs have gone thru a structured puppy "obedience" class, and a Canine Good Citizen prep class...and they all EXCELLED in class....they learned far faster than the other dogs, and looked like stars in the class....now, will they do those behaviors reliably at home? Not so much ;) It is ALWAYS up to the Basenji whether they want to play our little games.

    Andrea Walters

    Quercus Basenjis

    NW Ohio

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  • lvossL

    I agree with Andrea. My basenjis learn new things very quickly but they also get bored more quickly. In classes that ask for you to repeat over and over again to make sure the dog "gets it", basenjis start to goof off. All of mine get to a point where their behavior and attitude clearly say, "What is wrong with you, didn't you get this the first 5 times I did it?"

    I also have found that the more "money in the bank" I have with a behavior the more likely they are to do it. So training sessions are kept short, varied, and have a high pay off for my dogs so that if I need that command and I don't have a treat handy they are still likely to respond because there is something in it for them more often then not.

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  • JannekeJ

    @lvoss:

    My basenjis learn new things very quickly but they also get bored more quickly. In classes that ask for you to repeat over and over again to make sure the dog "gets it", basenjis start to goof off. All of mine get to a point where their behavior and attitude clearly say, "What is wrong with you, didn't you get this the first 5 times I did it?"

    This is so true!
    Tillo starts to talk when it takes too long for me to get the fact that he already understands the command.. so there's no need to practice anymore :D

    Tillo's website

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  • wizardW

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    wizardW
    I've talked with the owner of the facility it was interesting that the owner had a similar situation in her class but caught the problem the first night. She suggested stay on leash for the sequences and treat more between obstacles (just as suggested here), so I guess we'll try and finish the class after I talk with the instructor and probably take it over with a different instructor. And the owner offered to do a private lesson with us so I'll jump on that chance too.
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    It's a natural puppy instinct to NOT pee/poo outside their "cove". This is to prevent predators in finding them with their smells all round the area. Sometimes it takes longer for some to go outside. A neighbor of mine got a puppy, and they too where having a hard time with pee/poo inside. I told them to just take it easy, and don't punish. Spend a good time outside, and award when he/she does go outside. It took until their dog was 8 months until he started going regularly outside.
  • spitfirekrl1S

    Leash Pulling…HELP!

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    I just stand still when Mirtillo pulls. He has a normal collar and leash. I wait untill he makes a turn and comes to me or makes eye contact. When he comes, he gets a treat. (just his normal kibble) When he makes eye contact I tell him he's a good boy. We are now at the point that when he comes he doesn't immediatly gets his treat, he first has to follow, sit, follow and then it's ok. On the flexi I mostly try to call him to come to me before he is at the end of the line, he gets a treat and he is 'free' again. On the normal leash Mirtillo also gets rewarded when he just looks at me and/or walks next to me. That way I'm way more interesting then the ground… When there is a dog/cat/bird and he pulls, I don't expect him to pay attention to me.. so I'm happy when he sits when I stand still and gives a quick glance at me. I also tried the method of just making a lot of turns, until the dog pays attention.. I didn't like it.. it was frustrating for me and for Mirtillo. I don't like to pull back.. I believe it is way too easy for the dog.. When I stand still, Mirtillo has to figure out how to get me walking again.. It's more of a positive game. When he pulls, I don't think... Ooooooohw.. here we go again........... But I think: ok, this is a great opportunity to get him to pay attention to me.. And I just stand still.. first he will ignore me, he will sniff somewhere else (there is no pulling anymore), then he will try to pull again to make me clear he wants to go there.. then he cries.. And then he thinks: I HATE YOU.. and he looks at me and comes to me with a face like: IS THIS OK??? And then I praise, give something yummie and we're both happy.
  • spitfirekrl1S

    Need some advice…

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    QuercusQ
    <> He may not find a kong with PB all that important. I am sure there is something out there, that he would find rewarding enough to go into the kitchen when he KNOWS he is going in for the day. Try a raw marrow bone...like a knuckle or femur that you can get from a butcher. Try not feeding him at all, until he goes into the kitchen in the morning...if he wants to eat, he has to go into the kitchen. Other than that, it sounds like you are handling it very well. He may have to wear a lead to get him into the kitchen, then you can remove it. I imagine he was allowed to pretty much do whatever he wanted in his last home...so he is confused with the new restrictions, and boundaries you have put in place (ones that he should have had from the beginning). It is hard when a dog has to start from square one, especially when they have learned that using their mouth can get them what they want. Good for you for hanging in there. He will eventually learn that he has to cooperate. I would definitely use his food for reward for good behavior. Doesn't mean you have to withhold his food if he doesn't cooperate...but you can use his food to help him realize what you want him to do.