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Leash issues

Behavioral Issues
  • Didn't want to co-opt another thread but something said there caught my interest.

    "Owners with dogs on leash need to have control of their animals, else the leash is nothing other than a way to be "legal". Once upon a long time ago, before the advent of leash laws, the law in my neck of the woods was the dog must be under the control of the owner. Much better, IMO, then just stipulating on a leash! "

    I have had many instances of dogs both on and off leash not being under control of the human when I'm walking with my dogs (black labs IMO are the worst offender because people think that since they are so people oriented they are always under control or are never aggressive - NOT).

    What really threw me though was when I was at the pet shop looking for a short "urban" leash to attach to my double lead to make it a little longer, the shop attendent showed me a length of braided rawhide about 8 inches long that had a snap hook on one end but no loop or anything on the other. I said how is a person supposed to hang onto that? She said "oh it's just so owners can have something on the dog to satisfy the leash laws" !!

  • That's also the reason I allways have a leash with me that I cut in half. I can then just say that the leash broke and that that is the reason my dog is running loose. ;-)

  • Dogs on leash but out of control can often be more trouble than a dog off leash. Dogs are sometimes more aggressive on leash, and with an owner who can't or won't prevent them from approaching other dogs, you have a set up for a bad situation. And don't get me started on flexis! Of course, they are not technically legal under many leash laws unless they are "locked off".

    Leashes can give a new Basenji owner a false sense of security, as a lapse in attention with some dogs will lead quickly to a bitten through leash and a loose dog! :)

    Walking a dog, like driving a car, should be job one when you are engaged in it. Conversation or other distractions should not take your focus off of the animal (or the road!) and you should attend to potential problems before they get out of hand. This means being observant of your dog and of your surroundings. The difference between "professional" trainers and the rest of us, is that they see trouble coming and head it off, often so successfully that unless you are a keen observer you never see the averted problem.

  • Dogs need to be CONTROLLED on a leash, but they also need the leash in public places. Someone's dog attack your dog, some idiot HURT your dog and cause it to bite, your dog dies because YOU couldn't be bothered following the laws. I was so impressed in Europe with all the dogs out everywhere from restaurants to even museums and public transportation, all leashed and mostly well controlled. It is the people who disobey the laws that make problems for everyone else. Your dog may be perfect, but you have no more right to risk it than someone with an aggressive dog. It is always those who are above laws who cause the rest of us to have even more restrictions trying to reign in the others. In most places in the USA, dogs are allowed almost no where in stores or elsewhere. Sadly those who ignore common sense laws like leash laws will cause other places to follow us into our restrictions on pets in public.

  • I agree. It upsets me to see people walking with Flexis and their dog attacks some other dog because they're not paying attention, or don't know how to work the trigger mechanism properly. I've come to think that maybe people in cities just shouldn't use them because errors will inevitably occur…humans will be humans. I live in the country though, and there's no one around where I walk my dog. The long Flexi is the best choice for me because I like to let my dog explore some on her own when we're on walks, and she can run here and there while still not being able to take off. Not every situation is the same for everyone. If I were in the city or around people and congestion I'd probably use a 5 or 6 ft. fixed lead.

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  • Not wanting to be put on leash

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    @eeeefarm said in Not wanting to be put on leash: @scagnetti said in Not wanting to be put on leash: Also, I've not had any experiences with Basenjis of a certain age deciding to be any more difficult than they already were. Incidentally, what is this age or age range? Typically when they start to mature, maybe 18 months/2 years, but is variable with the dog, and it isn't just Basenjis. I've seen this a lot with people who have reliable pups, and I think "wait for it"! The pup is growing up, testing boundaries, and folks often make mistakes when this happens, which allows the dog to realize "I don't have to do that if I don't want to". Think teenagers! To me, a recall is never optional, so I don't ask for one if I don't think I can get it. Never poison your command word! And it doesn't matter where, if I say come I mean it, so if the dog blows me off in the house I will go get him and bring him to where I was when I asked for the behaviour. No exceptions, not even when I was busy doing something else. Same with "no". If I am for instance on the phone and the dog gets into something, if I say "no" and the behaviour continues I will drop the phone and go enforce the "no". Letting stuff go is a quick route to an unresponsive dog. I think I am informed by my horse experience. Nobody needs 1000 lbs. of "I don't want to"! So you don't allow exceptions to important matters. I should add, I am old. When I first started training dogs, nobody used food rewards. Praise was sufficient. It still is, with many breeds. (my Border Collie was completely uninterested in food when he was working). Basenjis and other hound and terrier breeds are definitely more interested in "what's in it for me" so you need to give them a reason other than pleasing you. Food works for some, consequences are also a great motivator once the dog understands them, and being intuitive about when to use which is why good trainers get great results. Making the reward valuable is important. Anything too readily available loses its value, which is why if you are using food you need to move to a variable schedule once the behaviour is understood and on cue. Think casinos. Dogs, like people, are motivated by the expectation that this time will be the winner! Ah, yes, I thought you meant the rebellion tendencies were specific to or more pronounced with Basenjis. Definitely after puppyhood the rebellious behavior starts, which is why obligation must be taught, and this is the case for all breeds. I agree completely with what you say. And after variable rewarding, it moves to random rewarding.
  • Leash Agression

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    @tanza: Rather then responding to spam, send a note to the admins of the group LOL you firing my OWN advice back to me? I know, I know… fail.
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    My experience with my Belle, who was 8weeks old when we started leash trainning, is the old standard "link leash" no cloth or material leash, My vet sales a brank of leash and collars and if your dogs chews throug, no question asked, you return it and replaced on the spot….It has worked so far, I will check out tomorrow of the brand I don't remember but the collars are great....I will let you know. Check out my album and see my husband and the 3 B's on the first walk together after the new fosters came.....
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    That is just to funny having to chase the dog with underware and guests. At least you had something to talk about that night that was different. Rita Jean
  • Major issues

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    When I first acquired my previous basenji the breeder suggested putting paper towels in the bottom of the crate (she can tear them up to her hearts content and even if she eats some if shouldn't cause problems) and to give frozen marrow bones to keep her occupied. There are also lots of interactive toys available that also keep her occupied.
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    @sharronhurlbut: Training with treats will work, if you take it slow. Clicker training works as well. I was going to say the same thing. I would carry a treat bag with me, and a clicker when out on leash. Use the clicker to mark correct behavior, i.e., sitting calmly while another dog passes. If my dog gets snarky on leash, I promptly stand in front of him, and put him in a sit/wait with a focus on ME (not the other dog). if he persists, I simply become a "goalie" and continue to block his path, get eye contact, and again, get a sit/wait.