I have used wire for about 40 years. A good quality wire is safe. Obviously if you have a strong dog who is determined to break out, you may need to go to the uber expensive crates that are almost solid metal. Few dogs need those. As Pat said, no top means no dog. They laugh at 6 feet, much less 40 inches. They can jump or climb easily. Plastic ones are more easily chewed unless the solid ones... which block view and air.
Focus help
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I start all my basenji on a 6 foot leash with agility. I can easily control the leash so it doesn't get hung up on thing but still give them enough lead to safely clear jumps. I just toss the leash in the tunnel after them. This is how my instructor starts dogs but it gives many other instructors coniptions. I think though you are right to think focus and too many obstacles in sequence too fast are more the issue. Our early classes we work on "point" which is a finger targeting command to help redirect our dogs to us. Also, most of the students in the class take their manners classes with one instructor who is really big on teaching name response and attention which also help to get them refocused. With the basics we then start building small sequences 2, 3, 4 obstacles and frequent click/treat between obstacles.
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Thanks.
I'll insist on keeping her on a leash in class for awhile yet. I can't do anything about having too many sequences in class but maybe I can work something up in the basement at home so we can practise working together.
And yes my instructor has experience mostly with Australian shepherds.
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Oh, there's so much you can do! You've gotten some good suggestions already.
Part of the zooming is, like you've pointed out, a young dog lacking physical exercise. Part is stress. Now I know some people will disagree and say "But Princess looks so happy", well yes, some dogs stress up, some stress down. If you'd rather call stressing up, over-excitement, that's fine. But think of asking a kid to do geometry right before they open their presents on Christmas morning. It's hard to calm down enough to do that. Rescue Remedy may help some of this.
Join the sighthound agility list. search yahoo groups under SHagility list.
Work through Control Unleashed excercises. There is a book and 2 sets of DVD's. Pay close attention to mat work, Gimme A Break, whiplash turn, look at that and box work. (off the top of my head) You can do these on your own, but if you can find a local CU class, that'd be awesome. There weren't any classes in my area when i felt like a needed to be doing these things with Zest, so i ended up teaching my own class. One of my students with a Rhodesian Ridgie, told me she could yell "MAT!" as her dog began to zoom in class, and her dog would run to the mat and down. It does take a while to get to that point, which brings us to:
http://dogscouts.org/Protocol_for_relaxation.html
I use a down instead of a sit, but these steps made doing a lead out with Zest a snap! I also started teaching front crosses with her on her mat and got her used to me going behind her with out a spin. Very handy in agility.
Also, have you done any foundation work without the obstacles? I'm think of Greg Derrett type stuff where you run around in spirals and figure 8's with the dog moving beside you? That's really the place to start running a course. You can find GD's dvd's at cleanrun.com or dogwise. it's a little pricey, so you many want to see if you can rent/borrow his foundations dvd from somewhere. I know cleanrun does some of that and there is an educational dvd rental place somewhere on line. i do not know if they have that particular video.
Additionally, i would purchase the Jan 2011 issue of Cleanrun. It's the one with the pretty samoyed on the cover. there is a GREAT article on focus written by someone who has/trains/runs terriers and a whippet. She's also on the SHAgility list.
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Oh my oh my – so many things to mull over -- I now have a copy of C.U. but not the CDs yet. I wish my instructor was better trained in CU, I can see a lot of things now that she did wrong - or at least wrong for hypersensitive dogs.
I'm not anxious to compete so I think I have time to work on these suggestions.
Thanks everyone !! -
yea, ideally, the agility ring becomes your "box" as in boxwork. I think it would be fun to play with that idea in training for agility. You start with one jump in a small box, then 2 jumps in a small box, then 1 jump one tunnel in a slightly larger box, then 2 jumps 1 tunnel in a slightly larger box, etc. I have done a little of that with Zest.
I did check the CU videos are at cleanrun under the video on demand but the GDarrett stuff is not. the video on demand will give you access to the videos for 2 weeks, but it's not yours to keep.
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I like the CU DVDs, they were a good supplement to the book. They could use some editing but definitely helpful. I got them for Christmas and I'm still working through them. Leslie shows several examples of dogs that react to stress in different ways and how she suggests to address it. Lots of focus stuff that I've found helpful in general with a highly distracted dog.
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Nemo -
did you get the second set (the games set)? i've only gotten the first (foundation) set. So much info! i thought i'd heard there was a basenji in the second dvd set??? -
Nemo -
did you get the second set (the games set)? i've only gotten the first (foundation) set. So much info! i thought i'd heard there was a basenji in the second dvd set???I got the foundations set that you have. Once I get through that I'll probably go for the games set at some point.
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One last question – Is it worth our while to continue with this novice agility class? Should I drop it until we have better focus and try again later?
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did you take some sort of foundations class??
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Yes we had three foundations classes (working on individual obstacles and other basics).
The current class started right off the bat with a dozen or more obstacles in sequence off leash - and because my beastie would take the first 1 or maybe 2 obstacles and then zoom off, we get sidelined every class so we have yet to do a full sequence anyway. That's why I'm thinking to drop it now and pick the class up another time and go back to work on focus basics.
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I think only you can answer that question. if you're only practicing undesirable behavoirs, dropping the class might be a wise choice. could you take some private lessons and slowly build to more obstacles? or just rent the agility area? could you just reward after two or three obstacles, then reward after 2 or 3 more and slowly build? i wish you lived closer to me!
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I've talked with the owner of the facility it was interesting that the owner had a similar situation in her class but caught the problem the first night. She suggested stay on leash for the sequences and treat more between obstacles (just as suggested here), so I guess we'll try and finish the class after I talk with the instructor and probably take it over with a different instructor. And the owner offered to do a private lesson with us so I'll jump on that chance too.
