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Can an abused Basenji ever be completely rehabilitated?

Behavioral Issues
  • Thanks , I'm hopefull, he is a handfull, I can't keep a collar on him, he gets out at least once every 3 months, I can't tighten to much becasue he has a allergy and his hair rubs off. Our vet just has made a few extra rabies tags, sometime when it is not so wet I will find the two he has broken out of.

    Does anyone know of a collar that is basenji proof?

    Till Later Shango, Ra, & Belle's human:)

  • we have an escaper, and the only collar he cannot get off is one that is material and chain. it slips over his head and the leash clasps on the chain part. he cannot back out of it. we also use a reflective snap collar to put the tags on. when we walk him, he wears 2 collars, one with the tags and one with the leash. it works well. if you want pics. let me know and i will take a few and post them.

  • Crazybasenjimom, Have you considered not using a collar on him and maybe just have a harness, nice and snug, not too tight but snug enough so he can't get out of it?
    How are you feeling? I know you just had surgery right?
    Let's do a play date (I guess I am humanizing my dogs…) once the weather gets better, in the park..if you feel up to it..

  • There are collars that b's can't slip out of…they are greyhound type collars..*anyone seeing how narrow a GH head is, they see that this is the only thing to use on a basenji.
    I will try to find a site for them.
    the name escapes me right now, Pat or Lisa, do you know the collar I am speaking of??

  • I am not Pat nor Lisa, but i think you might be talking about Martingale collars, or lurcher collars..Otis has one.

  • Petra, yes, thank you honey…I had a hell day at work, and can't remember my own name.
    Those are the collars everyone should get for their b's...to keep them on a leash!

  • I would get one, but (only my opinion) they look so clunky to me. They look comfortable and I like the design of the fabric they use, but they're so big.

  • Not all martigales are big. I have several that are the same size as a regular buckle collar. For lure trials and race meets, I find it better to have the dogs on the wider martingales because loose leash walking goes completely out the door when the lure moves and I would rather spread out the force they are putting on their necks when they pull.

  • You can get them in thinner styles, the one Otis has from Lupine is not that wide..

    and they have a lifetime guarantee. If the dog chews it even if to pieces they will replace it..We have replaced Otis' once…

  • BIg is better with pulling b's…this makes the pressure on their necks less...the wider the band. Myself, I don't like "thin" collars for our breed.

  • I agree, I like the wider bands on their necks too.
    Otis' new collar is 2.5 inches in the front and narrows down to 1" at the buckle..so the tapered style, but if you want thinner, the option is out there..

  • AJ only pulls when he sees another dog. He might reconsider this, though. I let him play with a 1-yr-old Terrier earlier who kept humping him. AJ told him to stop a few times, but never nipped him. He looked so miserable! :o

    The owner wants to get him neutered, but says the vet wanted over $100 to do it. I told him take the dog to SPCA. It won't be as much.

  • @AJs:

    AJ only pulls when he sees another dog. He might reconsider this, though. I let him play with a 1-yr-old Terrier earlier who kept humping him. AJ told him to stop a few times, but never nipped him. He looked so miserable! :o

    The owner wants to get him neutered, but says the vet wanted over $100 to do it. I told him take the dog to SPCA. It won't be as much.

    And in California a neuter would be way more then that… and if using a SPCA clinic, hate to say it.. you usually will have more problems after then the going to a regular Vet that doesn't do them on a assembly line process

    As they say, you get what you pay for

  • @tanza:

    and if using a SPCA clinic, hate to say it.. you usually will have more problems after then the going to a regular Vet that doesn't do them on a assembly line process

    We live in an area with a very high stray concentration so we have neutered two males who we found, then found them new homes. (we take them in, put up flyers and take out classifieds looking for their owners, then if no one shows up, we neuter them and find them new homes.)

    The free neuter at animal care & control cost us over $200 to fix, but the $40 neuter at Anti Cruelty went very well. (Yes, we spent over $200 on a stray we had no intention of keeping. Yes, we are crazy. the second stray cost more than that even, because we had to save his life when we found him.)

    A regular vet runs $250-$300 for a neuter in our area.

    -Nicole

  • [QUOTE=AJs Human;100027
    The owner wants to get him neutered, but says the vet wanted over $100 to do it. I told him take the dog to SPCA. It won't be as much.

    OH, I ONLY WISH!! Up here in my area we pay anywhere from $350 to $500.:eek: It's ridiculous. I only wonder if they know they are not anestizing an elephant!:)

  • @nomrbddgs:

    OH, I ONLY WISH!! Up here in my area we pay anywhere from $350 to $500.:eek: It's ridiculous. I only wonder if they know they are not anestizing an elephant!:)

    I don't think it's that much for a human vasectomy! It's not like they have to dig around inside the animal's abdomen! I had my cat spayed for $17 and she hasn't had any problems at all. I took her to Lincoln County Spay/Neuter Clinic in Newport, OR.

  • When Ruby was spayed it was around $350 - 2yrs ago. One thing I heard when investigating low cost spay was that it often doesn't include the price of meds. I chose not to do low-cost because of anasthesia issues with sighthounds. I contacted a local breeder and they gave me a recommendation of a vet locally that was knowlegable (and had done surgery on basenjis) so I had Ru's spay done there. I also had heard of problems with low cost spay and pee leakage issues following. It was worth the cost for me for some peace of mind.

  • Around here neuters are around $350-$500 and spays around $500-600. The estimate is itemized and there are some things that the may be "optional" though I would not skip them. Mainly pre-op bloodwork, $85, and IV fluids which is usally around $100.

    Nicky's most recent dental appointment was $400 and that was just to anesthestize and x-ray.

    This is one reason when people tell me that they cannot afford the purchase price of a puppy that I tell them that now is probably not the right time to get a dog. The purchase price is such a small fraction of the cost of dog.

  • Getting your animals vetted with a regular vet who will care for your dog when its sick is very important, IMO. I helps to have one place to have all your animals info…
    course, if you can get a low cost spay/neuter you will be able to bring those forms in to your vet.

  • @lvoss:

    Around here neuters are around $350-$500 and spays around $500-600. The estimate is itemized and there are some things that the may be "optional" though I would not skip them. Mainly pre-op bloodwork, $85, and IV fluids which is usally around $100.

    That's a good point - when Ruby was spayed the bloodwork was an additional $85 - forgot that. So my $350 for a spay was really $435 as I had a full blood panel done. IV Fluids were included in the $350 price. I 100% agree with you, I would never skip either bloodwork or IV fluids on any surgery. Nor would I skip the bloodwork on the annual exam (for the yearly baseline).

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